I cannot even begin to put into words this journey that I went on. Traversing the Southern Alps of New Zealand over 85 days. I've talked on a podcast, been interviewed for wilderness and written a few articles, some of which are still to come out, but there's always more to say. Maybe once I've turned all my odds and ends of footage into a short film I'll feel like I've done my adventure justice, but also when will I ever find the time to do that.
For now...
85 days
1154 kilometres walked
59234m climbed
48 days with friends
37 days solo in the alps
50 sunny days
35 rainy days
71 moving days
14 hut/rest days
65 nights in a hut
20 nights in a tent
One epic adventure
31st October 2022 to 27th January 2023
'It doesn't matter where I do, only that I go.' me, on day 6 when I nearly gave up.
Penzy Dinsdale at key summit

Starting out, unfit, disorganised with so much unknown ahead and facing a week of bad weather, hence we are starting at Key Summit instead of by traversing the Serpentine Range - photo credit to Maz Krough

Snowy waterfall Death Valley

The weather threw a late snowy curve ball as climbed up Death Valley

Native tree in flower

Focusing on the small beautiful things, stopped me from focusing too much on the very big picture

Finch

A finch

Cuckoo

A cuckoo - yes this isn't a great photo, but I don't feel like I see these birds often so I really wanted to include it.

Misty Dart Valley

Mist rises as the weather changes from atrociously bad to atrociously hot

Misty dart Valley

More mist

Cattle Flat Rock Biv kettle

I really enjoyed this kettle at the Cattle Flat Rock Biv

Waterfall Dart Valley

The Dart Valley really is a rather magical place, and I'd never been until this traverse

Tarn reflecting mountains

Early morning tarn reflections at Rees Saddle, before things got a bit hairy going over to Lochnagar

Kea

Making new friends in the mountains

Looking down at Lochnagar

Finally safe, the descent into the stunning place of Lochnagar

View from the window of Lochnagar Hut

Admiring the view at Lochnagar Hut

Looking into Lochnagar Hut

Works both ways, looking in at Maz heating water for dinner

Lochnagar hut and lake

This has got to be one of the best hut toilet views?

Reflection on Lochnagar and NZAPA Highly commended

Lochnagar had some truly magical reflections

Reflections in Lochnagar

Just stunning

Crossing a flooded creek using a cableway

The outflow of Lochnagar was up quite a bit though, so we found ourselves trusting to an older cable way to get safely across. - Maz in action

Matukituki Valley from Shotover Saddle

View into the home territory of my university stomping ground, Matukituki Valley, from Shotover Saddle

Cute lamb

By now spring had sprung and the Matukituki Valley was full of gorgeous lambs

Matukituki River

Matukituki River catching the light

Sharkstooth peak

Majestic sheep with Sharkstooth peak in the background

East Matukituki Valley

Beautiful lighting in the East Matukituki Valley

Mountain and cloud panorama

I love that the mountains are playing hide and seek behind the clouds

Tramper on a three wire bridge

Maz on a three wire bridge

Wilkin Valley

The Wilkin Valley is glorious

Mt Cook buttercup in the Wilkin Valley

Mt Cook Buttercup in the upper Wilkin

Rock Wren at Lake Castalia

Rock Wren at Lake Castalia

Rock Wren

Now there will be a series of Rock Wren photos as I can never pick a favourite.

Rock Wren

Getting closer

Dick Dinsdale and Penzy Dinsdale on Gillespie Pass

My dad came and joined for the section over Gillespie Pass - thanks to Jess Blyth for the photo

White flowers

Lovely the lushness of the forest

Landsborough Valley black and white

Heading solo up the Landsborough Valley into a gathering storm certainly felt as ominous as this photo makes it feel

Mist and hills

Atmospheric

Calf behind barbed wire

Linking up all of the Southern Alps, also meant crossing some high country station, where I met this wee cutie and his friends

The Dobson, I feel this photo well captures the mood of we slogged all the way up, watched some avalanches fall down, then turned around and slogged the whole way back down.

Lower Dobson Valley

Admitting defeat after trying another way over the ranges from the Dobson to Mt Cook Village - there's still a 12km section I need to go back and complete. Who's keen to join?

Paradise duckling

A few days to regroup waiting for weather at Mt Cook, meant playing with ducklings!

Paradise duckling

Having a wee rest

Paradise duckling

Sleepy duckling

Paradise ducklings

Nap time and snuggles

Paradise duckling pile

Yep that's probably too many photos of ducklings now, but they're so cute!

Aoraki/Mt Cook peaking through the storm clouds

I always love a stormy day, the photos are somehow better than bluebird day. So as we waited for the weather to clear in Aoraki/Mt Cook Village I was fortunate to get this beautiful stormy of the mountain

First light on Aoraki/Mt Cook

First light on Aoraki as the storm clears

Black and White Tasman Glacier lake with icebergs

Playing with shadow and icebergs on the Tasman Glacier lake

Tasman Glacier Lake with Icebergs

While it's sad that a lake like this indicates the relatively fast loss of a Glacier, it is rather beautiful

Aoraki/Mt Cook from Tasman Valley

Heading up the Tasman

A helicopter approaching Plateau Hut

My first real look at Plateau Hut, although I've been up and down the Tasman before I've never really looked for the hut. Fitting that here it is with one of the many Helicopters that bring climbers in and out daily.

Sooji Clarkson about the Tasman Glacier

Sooji, stoked to be having a snack about the Moraine on our way up to Plateau Hut. I was very glad to make my first trip there a walk in

The Grad Plateau from Cinerama Col

The Grand Plateau from Cinerama Col

East Ridge of Dixon Peak

Looking across the East Ridge of Dixon

Black and White Ridge of Dixon NZAPA highly commended

Scouting tomorrow's route and getting carried away with the lighting

Linda Glacier Icefall

Loving the texture of the Linda Icefall

Grand Plateau

Lighting play on the Grand Plateau

West Coast Neves

West Coast Neves, stoked to pass through here on skis

Old Pistenbully Tasman Glacier

The old Pistenbully on the Tasman Glacier

Ski touring upper Tasman Glacier

Skis were essential for traversing fast on the soggy afternoon glaciers

Evening light in the Southern Alps

Evening light in the mountains is always special

Cooking a pancake over a candle

When you've been stuck in a hut for a few days and don't have enough gas to cook the hut pasta. So instead you cold soak it to a batter and cook it as mini-pancakes over a candle!

Sooji Clarkson and a waterfall in the Perth River Valley

Sooji crossing in front of a waterfall in the Perth Valley, travel in this valley is so much improved thanks to the predator control work by ZIP

Blue speckled eggshell

A pre-used eggshell I found

Blue duck on a river

There was a year that I think I saw Blue Duck on every single trip I went out. It was wonderful to once again see them in so many regions - although there is still a long way to go to protect this species

Trampers in the Upper Perth Valley

Sooji, Emily and Adam in the upper Perth

Upper Perth Valley

Stunning spot for a campsite in the upper Perth Valley - and it only took a day to get here this time!

Campfire in the Upper Perth

Adam, Emily and Sooji relaxing and enjoying a good campfire in the Upper Perth

Portrait of a Juvenile Kea

This pretty boy came to play in camp

Portrait of a Juvenile Kea

Who me? I'm so innocent

Juvenile Kea

There he is

Juvenile Kea

Such a cheeky cutie

Portrait of a Tahr in New Zealand

Oh Hello there! This would be my closest Tahr encounter yet. He watched us climb up the face for ages below him, and fortunately stuck around for me to take this photo before taking off.

Sooji and Adam climbing up past Tahr Rock on Perth Saddle

Sunset in a river valley

After another day rain-bound it was nice to see evidence of clearing on the horizon

Black and White photo of the McCoy Glacier

Black and White and moody heading up the McCoy Glacier

Sooji Clarkson

Sooji surveying the route ahead into the Lyall Glacier

Emily Wilson

Portrait of Emily

Emily looking like a real badass mountain woman with the mountains reflected in her sunglasses

Lyall Hut, Emily Wilson

Emily enjoying the wonderful and newly rebuilt Lyall Hut!

Orange Fungi

Orange Fungi!

Daisy's growing out of a crack in the rocks

Admire the tenacity of the daisy, growing out of a crack in the rocks

Classic New Zealand Landscape

Beautiful landscape and routes ahead

Adult Kea

I met yet another kea on my travels! He looks happy to see me

Portrait of a kea

Isn't he beautiful?

Portrait of a kea

Yellow on the edge of his eye indicates he's only just becoming an adult

The Wilberforce

Views in the Wilberforce

Flax/Harakeke flowers

These Harakeke flowers caught my attention

View from Carrington Hut

Ah this is a familiar view, from Carrington Hut on Christmas Eve

5 leaf plant

Christmas Star maybe?

Lake Mavis

Lake Mavis proved to be a popular place for just after Christmas, with some beautiful lighting too

Distant mountains in cloud

By now I'd walked many mountains but still had a long way to go

Christian Ruegg enjoying camp at Lake Mavis

Chris enjoying camp at Lake Mavis

Sooji and Chris on a rock

Sooji and Chris waiting for me to stop taking photos and continue walking

Rock Wren (female)

But then I found this little one hiding in amongst the rocks and was even slower taking even more photos

Rock Wren (female)

She's such a cutie

Rock Wren (female)

...

Rock Wren

Even closer

Rock Wren

In beautiful light

Rock Wren

Both sides

Rock Wren NZAPA Commended

And even a cheeky over-the-shoulder shot

Climbing Tarn Col

A Sooji taking a Sooji-route up Tarn Col

Lake Minchin

Lake Minchin

South Island Robin

A Robin!

White flowers

Everything in nature is just beautiful

Whio

There were also Whio

Whio calling

Calling for his mate

Whio

So close - eyeing me up

Whio

I love the ripples in this one

Bed of white flowers

It was beautiful to see carpets of flowers

Kea in flight

Kea in flight - always the elusive photo, but I'm making some progress

Kea in flight

This one's not half bad!

Kea in flight

Oh the colour of those underwings!

Kea in flight

The feathers!

Kea in flight

The power of flight

Smug kea sneaking up

So this cheeky group of Juveniles came to visit me on New Year's Eve and played the game of sneaking up behind me while I read my book.

I had planned on an early night for New Years Eve, but one of these buggers spoiled that plan by chewing on my tent until well after midnight

Kea ready to destroy

Beak set to damage mode

New Years Eve campsite

It was a beautiful camp for New Years Eve! 

Kea Silhouette

Feathered pest! - not really, I love these birds

Clouds on distant mountains

Clouds from a distant summit

Deer resting and nibbling alpine flowers

I've never come across deer just chilling on alpine flowers. But then again I guess I rarely travel alone and thus I'm never this quiet.

Tussock tops

Just kilometres of beautiful tussocky tops travel

Tussock tops

I love tops

Distant snowy mountains

Distant snowier mountains

Sunset lake

Sunset lakeside camping

Sunset lake panorama

It really was a great campsite

Sun streaming through forest

Sun in the forest

Sunny forested creek

Who wouldn't want to walk up this stunning sunny creekbed

Beautiful NZ forest

Beautiful forest

Beautiful creek travel

Oh what a wonderful creek to walk up

Brass Monkey Biv

Brass Monkey Biv. How is it I never see the view when I visit?

Tussock valley

I love secret valleys like this

Snow Totara berries

My favourite mountain snack - snow totara! I got so hungry on the traverse, that I was always glad to stop and harvest these!

Rifleman on a tree

I actually think the Rifleman might have low key been the bird of the trip, I was delighted to hear them everywhere. A lot harder to get a decent photo though.

Two riflemen on a tree

Two riflemen in one photo!

Cute riflemen on a tree!

Aren't they wee cuties!

Rifleman!

They move so quick!

Three wire bridge over a beautiful blue stream

Stunning wee three-wire bridge

Tomtit on the 3-wire bridge

Tomtit on the bridge

Beautiful creek in forest

I love just finding beautiful spots like this. They aren't famous spots and I probably would struggle to tell you exactly where they are, but somehow that makes them even more special. Like they are my secrets.

NZ beech forest and moutains

Just classic New Zealand

Close up on vegetable sheep

Mountain textures - a vegetable sheep

Robin in sunlight

I love the way the light was catching this robin

Feathers on a robin's head

I love how close I could get to the texture of the feathers of his head

Feathers on a robin's head

Even closer

NZ south island robin

Just the perfect model

Feathers of a robin

I love the textures of nature

Blossum

The number of times I've looked at this photo and only just noticed the insect approaching the flowers!

Matiri River reflections

The Matiri Valley is a strange feeling place, the track has been left to its own devices. Now the river is often better for travel than the track.

Matiri Valley

Upper Matiri Valley

Up above the head of the Matiri Valley

Climbing up above the Matiri Valley, heading to the Wangapeka (incidentally the site of one of my first ever South Island tramping trips). It's a pretty spectacular traverse.

Tree trunk texture

I love the texture of this tree

Rifleman

I love the colours I caught on this rifleman! Seriously bird of the trip!

Beautiful creek in moss

Magic forest moment

Kahurangi National Park

Kahurangi National Park has so many beautiful green moments

Kahurangi Forest

And the green forest goes on for miles

Rifleman!

Another amazing rifleman!

Kahurangi Tops

Tops nearing the end of the traverse now

Weka Chick

And as luck would have it a super cute fluffy weka baby!

The dragon's teeth in black and white

The Dragon's teeth looking beautifully atmospheric! - I'll have to do the high traverse/climb them one day.

Dragon's teeth route

Route to the Dragon's teeth

Lonely Lake Hut

Lonely Lake Hut - I actually think this might have been my favourite hut of the traverse. It had been done up since the last time I was there and was beautifully thought out on the inside. As well as so snug for one person, I think that's why I loved it so much after rattling around solo in much larger huts.

Lonely Lake picnic table

I mean what a spot to sit for dinner

Lonely Lake Hut sunset

What a stunning sunset!

Lonely Lake Sunset

Oh that lighting!

Sunset with beams!

Beams!

Stunning sunset

Just magical light

Goat in Kahurangi national park

Goats are a bit of a pest in this national park, but he still looked pretty cool

Kahurangi forest

Love the Kahurangi Forest, love the tree tumour! Low traverse of the dragon's teeth. As much as I wanted to do the high traverse safety prevailed alone and heading north instead of south...

Adelaide Tarn

Adelaide Tarn!

Swimming hole at Boulder Lake Hut

So I feel like I can say that I've now searched the Southern Alp along it's entire length, and this has to be the best swimming hole out there. Right behind Boulder Lake Hut.

Beautiful waterfall

Seriously what a waterfall

Boulder Lake reflection

I love the reflection on Boulder Lake

Boulder Lake panoramic reflection

Just an amazing final morning in the hills

Flax flowers and coast

And after 84 days, I've finally reached the coast

Footsteps on sand, Farewell spit

The final day, a wander onto Farewell Spit

Pied Oystercatchers black and white

Pied Oystercatchers facing the weather

Pied Oystercatchers

I couldn't tell if I liked it more in black and white or colour

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